In Mexico City, some of my favorite tacos, even before I was vegetarian, were those stuffed with cactus paddles, mushrooms or squash blossoms. But at restaurants closer to home, what passes for vegetables often leaves much to be desired. At one downtown D.C. spot recently, I had tacos in which the “veggies” were nothing more than grilled onions and peppers: the boring backdrop to fajitas.

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